THE TIMES LONDON-December 2000
“Renaossance in Tuscand & Umbria"
TODI / UMBRIA. A dream of a walled town of Etruscan and Roman origins, which you can see fro miles around shimmering on a hillside. It’s my favourite along with Pienza. You can even park if you can keep your nerve through the one way system.
It’s Piazza del Popolo has been called the most perfect medieval square in Italy---though if you join the Passegiata (walkabout) on weekend evenings you will see it’s very much alive and kicking in the 21st century. So theatrical with it’s battlemented palaces and swash-buckling ornamental outside staircases, the square has not surprisingly featured in many period films. Photos of Rex Harrison in “The torment of Michaelangelo” and other stars adorn the town.s best restaurant (Ristorante Umbria)---try their zuppa Etrusca,- bean soup or cinghiale alla Cacciatora. Book your table early if you want the best view from the terrace.
Less daunting than the large flamboyant Renaissance Santa Maria della Consolazione, just below the town walls, or the echoing Gothic San Fortunato, which dominates the town. ---Todi’s pretty pink and white Romanesque Cathedral is smaller and simpler with a magnificent rose window.
Explore the labyrinth of alleys and steeply stepped and patterned streets, where many o f the tall houses, have been turned into weekend retreats for Romans (Orvieto is 25 miles away—Spoleto £2 miles
SHOPPING—There are 4 super markets – 5 banks – 4 chemists and 4 petrol stations conveniently located outside the walled city. The Owners provide a handbook with map showing where all these are situated plus recommendations for restaurants in the town and nearby
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